Tambour Embroidery DIY #6 - Fabric framing for embroidery For the full course, follow this link -
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There are no any difficulties to mount the fabric into the embroidery frame, however, we need to consider some peculiarities.
As I have already mentioned, the more elastic the mesh or any fabric is, the more difficult is to mount it and to embroider on it. In this course I will not demonstrate the work with super elastic fabric as we need to have individual approach for a particular mesh and a particular garment.
Thus, I will demonstrate the Dutch mesh mounting, which is not stretchable lengthwise and stretchable crosswise.
I place the non-stretchable side of the mesh fabric along the frame parts with the stapled fabric strips, and the mesh stretch will be achieved by enlarging the frame along the perpendicular bars.
First of all, it is necessary to define the fabric size and to set correctly the working zone of the frame.
Let’s suppose that your piece is 60 cm long and 25 cm high. Your future embroidered piece can fit in this area. I set the working area of the embroidery frame with some extra allowance. I have got the approximate sizes of the working area with allowance: length – 74 cm and height (width) – 30 cm.
I measure and cut the mesh along the length, making it for 1-2 cm shorter than the distance between the vertical bars. It is important to have a straight rectangle for the mounting
In order to cut the mesh precisely and for convenience I fold it twice, pin it to one of the stapled fabric strips on the bar and cut it without stretching, guided by the second parallel bar.
I unpin and unfold the mesh. The piece for my future embroidery is ready. The most important is not to have any distortions of the mesh fabric when mounting.
I turn over the embroidery frame facing down and sew one edge of the mesh to the fabric strip along the bar. The running stitches about 2 cm long are made.
There is a rule: the more elastic the fabric is, the smaller stitches are and the more precise mounting is. I make a knot at the end of the thread and when finishing sewing at the end of the frame I make several back stitches. In this case I can pull out the thread to use it for the next fabric mounting. As I have already mentioned, I use a coarse shoe thread and a rather thick needle. It is desirable to keep the sewing seam straight for a neat fabric mounting.
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